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WHERE WILL NEPAL TAKE YOU?

Five places we love, and how to see them

From the lakes of Pokhara to the Gurung villages of the Annapurna foothills, the deep valley of Mustang, the jungle of Chitwan and the old town of Bandipur, everything you need to choose, on one page. Scroll down for the next place.

Lakes, mountains & adventure

Pokhara

Our top pick

Nepal's lake city lies at the foot of the Annapurna range. Start with sunrise over the Himalaya from Sarangkot, spend the day on Phewa Lake, in the air or on the river, and end it in a Lakeside café. Most Annapurna treks begin here.

Best forAdventureLakesSunriseFoodFirst treks

Altitude
About 800 m
From Pokhara
You are here
Best time
Oct–Nov and Mar–Apr for clear views
Permits
None in the city

Why go

Pokhara sits at about 800 m on the shore of Phewa Lake, Nepal's second-largest lake, with the Annapurna range filling the northern sky. On a clear morning Machhapuchhre (6,993 m), the 'Fishtail' mountain, rises straight above the town and is mirrored in the water.

It is often called Nepal's adventure capital, and it is also its most relaxed city. You can paraglide, raft, zipline or bungee in the morning and sit in a lakeside café by afternoon. Most treks in the Annapurna region begin and end here, so many travellers spend a few days in Pokhara before and after.

Top 5, chosen by us

  1. Phewa Lake & Tal BarahiHire a painted wooden boat and row to the two-tiered pagoda temple on its island. Early morning is calmest, with Machhapuchhre reflected in the water.
  2. Sarangkot sunriseA 30-minute drive up to 1,600 m for the classic view: Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Machhapuchhre and the valley below turn gold at first light.
  3. World Peace PagodaA white Buddhist stupa on the forested ridge south of the lake, at about 1,100 m. Take a boat across and walk up, or drive, the view back over Pokhara is superb.
  4. Davis Falls & Gupteshwor CaveThe stream from Phewa Lake disappears underground at Davis Falls (Patale Chhango). Across the road, steps lead down into Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave, where you can see the falls from inside.
  5. Paragliding from SarangkotTandem flights launch from Sarangkot and glide over Phewa Lake with a pilot, no experience needed. Most flying happens from October to May.

When to go

October–November brings the clearest skies and pleasant days. March–April is warm, with rhododendrons in flower in the hills, though haze can soften the mountain views. December–February is clear but cold in the mornings. June–September is the monsoon: green and lush, with rain and clouds over the peaks.

Getting there

From Kathmandu it is about 200 km: 6–7 hours by private car or tourist bus, or a 25-minute flight. Pokhara is the base for everything else on this page. Ghandruk, Mustang, Chitwan and Bandipur are all reached from here.

Where to stay and eat

Most visitors stay in Lakeside, with hotels and guesthouses for every budget; Sarangkot has lodges for sunrise, and the far shore of the lake is quieter. Try momo, dal bhat and a Thakali set meal, and Newar snacks in the old bazaar.

Villages & mountain views

Ghandruk & the Annapurna foothills

Our top pick

A short drive and walk from Pokhara, Gurung villages of stone lanes and slate roofs look straight at Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre. Stay a night with a view, or walk a few days between tea houses, no climbing experience needed.

Best forVillage staysSunriseFirst treksPhotography

Altitude
1,940 m (Ghandruk)
From Pokhara
2.5–3 h by road, then an hour on foot
Best time
Oct–Nov and Mar–May
Permits
ACAP permit; a licensed guide for trekkers

Why go

Ghandruk is one of the largest Gurung villages in the Annapurna region, at about 1,940 m. Its stone-paved lanes, slate-roofed houses and small Gurung Museum sit on a steep hillside facing Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre. Many families here have a long tradition of service in the Gurkha regiments.

The foothills around it are the gentlest way into the Himalaya: short walks between villages and tea houses, sunrise viewpoints such as Poon Hill and Australian Camp, and longer trails like Mardi Himal and Annapurna Base Camp for those who want more.

Top 5, chosen by us

  1. Ghandruk villageWalk the stone lanes, visit the Gurung Museum and watch the evening light on Annapurna South from your lodge, at 1,940 m.
  2. Poon HillThe most famous sunrise in Nepal: a pre-dawn climb from Ghorepani to 3,210 m for Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas, with rhododendron forest in spring.
  3. Australian CampAn easy overnight: a short drive to Kande and a 1.5–2 hour walk up to a grassy ridge at 2,060 m with a wide Himalayan view.
  4. DhampusA quiet Gurung village on the ridge above Pokhara, with terraced fields, homestays and views straight up to Annapurna South.
  5. Mardi HimalA quieter ridge trek through forest to High Camp (3,580 m) and on to the base-camp viewpoint at 4,500 m, right under Machhapuchhre.

When to go

October–November is clear and dry, the best time for views. March–May is warmer, and the rhododendron forests flower in March and April. December–February is clear but cold, especially at night. June–September brings rain, leeches on the trails and clouds over the peaks.

Getting there

We drive from Pokhara via Nayapul to Kimche (about 2.5–3 hours), then walk about an hour up to Ghandruk. Australian Camp starts from Kande, an hour's drive away; Poon Hill treks usually start from Nayapul or Ulleri.

Where to stay and eat

Tea houses and lodges line the trails, with simple rooms and warm dining rooms. Ghandruk and Dhampus also have homestays with Gurung families. Dal bhat is the trekking fuel, refills are part of the meal.

Deep valleys & sacred places

Mustang & Muktinath

Our top pick

The road north follows the Kali Gandaki between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, one of the deepest valleys on earth, from green forest to dry, wind-swept highlands. Pilgrims come for Muktinath, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists; travellers come for the villages, the apples and the light.

Best forPilgrimageRoad tripsLandscapes

Altitude
About 3,800 m (Muktinath)
From Pokhara
A long day by jeep, or 20 minutes by air to Jomsom
Best time
Mar–May and Sep–Nov
Permits
ACAP permit; Upper Mustang needs a restricted-area permit

Why go

North of the Annapurnas, the Kali Gandaki river cuts between Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and Annapurna I (8,091 m). The road climbs from subtropical forest and waterfalls through Thakali villages to Jomsom and the dry, wind-swept landscapes of Lower Mustang, in the rain shadow of the Himalaya.

At about 3,800 m, Muktinath is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists: pilgrims bathe under 108 water spouts and visit a small temple where natural gas flames burn beside a spring. Beyond Kagbeni lies Upper Mustang, the old Kingdom of Lo, which needs a special permit.

Top 5, chosen by us

  1. Muktinath TempleBathe under the 108 water spouts or simply watch the pilgrims; the eternal flame of Jwala Mai burns in a small temple nearby, at about 3,800 m.
  2. KagbeniA medieval village of mud-brick houses, a red monastery and green barley fields, where the trail to Upper Mustang begins.
  3. MarphaA whitewashed Thakali village with a monastery above it and orchards all around, try the apples, apple pie and dried fruit.
  4. Rupse FallsA tall waterfall that drops right beside the road between Dana and Ghasa, on the way up the Kali Gandaki.
  5. Tatopani'Hot water' in Nepali: natural hot pools by the river, perfect for tired legs on the way up or back.

When to go

March–May and September–November are the best months: clear skies, and the road at its most reliable. Mustang lies in the Himalaya's rain shadow, so it stays drier in the monsoon, but landslides can close the road lower down. December–February is very cold and windy.

Getting there

Our jeep tour from Pokhara follows the road via Beni and Tatopani to Jomsom and Muktinath over three days. Flights from Pokhara to Jomsom take about 20 minutes and leave in the morning, before the afternoon winds; they are often delayed by weather.

Where to stay and eat

Lodges in Tatopani, Marpha, Jomsom, Kagbeni and Muktinath are simple and warm. The Thakali set meal, dal bhat with local greens and pickles, comes from this valley.

Jungle & wildlife

Chitwan

Our top pick

Four to five hours south of Pokhara, Chitwan National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, protects forests and grasslands that are home to the one-horned rhino, gharial crocodiles, deer and, rarely seen, the Bengal tiger. Stay in Sauraha on the Rapti river.

Best forWildlifeFamiliesPhotography

Altitude
About 150 m (Sauraha)
From Pokhara
4–5 h by road (about 150 km)
Best time
Oct–Mar; Feb–Apr for sightings
Permits
Park entry fee, paid per day

Why go

Chitwan National Park, set up in 1973 as Nepal's first national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984, protects sal forest, riverside grassland and oxbow lakes in the lowlands south of Pokhara. It is one of the best places in Asia to see the greater one-horned rhinoceros in the wild.

The park is also home to Bengal tigers, leopards, sloth bears, gharial and mugger crocodiles, several kinds of deer and more than 500 species of birds. Most visitors stay in Sauraha, a village on the Rapti river at the edge of the park, where the Tharu people have lived for centuries.

Top 5, chosen by us

  1. Jeep safariA half or full day in an open jeep through the grasslands and sal forest, the best chance to see rhinos, deer and, with luck, a tiger or leopard.
  2. Canoe on the RaptiGlide downstream in a dugout canoe past basking crocodiles, kingfishers and storks, then walk back through the forest with your guide.
  3. Jungle walkOn foot in the community forest with a licensed naturalist, learning to read tracks, calls and signs.
  4. Bird watchingMore than 500 species live here or pass through; early mornings along the river and lakes are best.
  5. Tharu cultureVisit a Tharu village and spend an evening with the stick dance and Tharu food.

When to go

October to March is the most comfortable time, with warm days and cool nights; winter mornings can be foggy. From February to April the tall grass is cut, so animals are easier to see, but it gets hot. June to September is hot and wet, and some jeep routes close.

Getting there

About 150 km from Pokhara: 4–5 hours by private car or tourist bus to Sauraha. From Kathmandu it is 5–6 hours by road, or a short flight to Bharatpur and a 30-minute drive. From Pokhara we arrange the transfer, with the safari as an add-on.

Where to stay and eat

Sauraha has lodges and resorts for every budget, many with gardens and river views, and restaurants along the Rapti for sunset. Try Tharu dishes such as dhikri, steamed rice-flour dumplings.

An old hilltop town

Bandipur

Our top pick

Halfway between Pokhara and Kathmandu, Bandipur sits on a ridge at about 1,030 m. It grew rich on the India–Tibet trade and kept its Newar town houses, temples and car-free bazaar street, a perfect night on the road.

Best forCulturePhotographyRoad-trip stop

Altitude
About 1,030 m
From Pokhara
About 2.5 h by road
Best time
Oct–Apr
Permits
None

Why go

Bandipur sits on a ridge at about 1,030 m above the Prithvi Highway in Tanahun district, halfway between Pokhara and Kathmandu. Newar traders settled here to run the caravan route between India and Tibet, and built tall brick houses with carved wooden windows along a single bazaar street.

When the highway was built down in the valley, trade moved away and the old town was left much as it was. Today the bazaar is closed to cars, and restored houses have become guesthouses and cafés, with the Himalaya stretching along the northern horizon.

Top 5, chosen by us

  1. The old bazaarA car-free street of tall Newar houses, small temples and cafés, loveliest in the evening, when the day visitors have left.
  2. Thani Mai templeA 30-minute climb from the bazaar to a hilltop temple for sunrise along a long stretch of the Himalaya.
  3. TundikhelAn old parade ground at the edge of town, with wide views over the Marsyangdi valley to the mountains.
  4. Siddha CaveOne of Nepal's largest caves, about an hour's walk below the town, with huge chambers of stalactites, go with a local guide and a torch.
  5. RamkotA traditional Magar village of round, thatched houses, an easy half-day walk along the ridge.

When to go

October to April brings clear mountain views, with cool mornings in December and January. The monsoon (June–September) is green and misty, and the old town is at its quietest.

Getting there

Bandipur is about 2.5 hours from Pokhara: the Prithvi Highway to Dumre, then a winding 8 km road up the hill. From Kathmandu it takes 4–5 hours, so it makes a perfect overnight stop between the two.

Where to stay and eat

Stay in a restored Newar house or a small hotel in the bazaar. Evenings are for dal bhat and Newar snacks in a courtyard café, with the lights of the valley below.